
Bustling Sarlat Market
The clouds gave way to watery sunshine, just warm enough to dry the cobbled streets below. The market, although busy whatever the weather suddenly came to life as the tarpaulins were thrown off and stowed away like sails no longer needed for a voyage, the true colours of the produce revealed. The shoppers moved through the stalls, a touch here, a word there, checking and choosing, each confident in the seller they selected for their garlic, truffles, rillets, and foie gras. This is Sarlat, the ancient town of golden stone, on market day.
Trestle tables wedged together in the 15th century cathedral square, laden with the fruits of the farmers labours, a weathered hand pointing out the benefits of bright coloured carrots, vibrant green celery plants, twisted cucumbers and stripy tomatoes. Fresh fish glistened in the sunshine on its icy bed and even the bare bones of a duck carcass were discussed before buying, as if it were caviar, not the makings of stock. Food has always been a serious business here.
Tucked down a medieval street above a Traiteur Chef Gerard Gatinel was preparing the delicious ingredients we had shopped for in the market. Like everyone else in Sarlat he had his favourite vendors. We packed into the more than adequate kitchen in the apartment, only feeling small whilst it had to accommodate seven of us chopping, stirring and photographing as we were encouraged to lend a hand with the cooking. It was hard not to be distracted by the wonderful smells of the buttery rich foie gras cooking, a precursor to our pots of scrambled eggs with generous earthy fresh truffle, followed by duck breast and pomme de terre Sarladaise, a local dish of rich goose fat, thinly sliced potatoes and garlic.
Stomachs full we heaved ourselves down the steep stairs to explore the alleyways of Sarlat in the late afternoon sunshine. Originally a medieval town built around the Benedictine Abbey which, despite it’s fortifications, suffered during the hundreds year war. In the 15th and 16th centuries building began again in the renaissance style. As a consequence of this and a preservation order from the French government,a Sarlat is a charming tangle of narrow streets and cobbled squares hemmed in by ancient buildings, carved archways, gables and gargoyles. A fascinating town to explore or just to relax in a café and watch the people go by.
Sarlat welcomes visitors all year round; December to March is the truffle season bringing with it the promise of delicious dishes to come. The spring sunshine brings piles of produce and beautiful flowers and the market is buzzing. The heat of the summer brings the French tourists especially in August, but September and October are mellow and warm, the grape harvest begins and the hotels are a little emptier.
I stayed in the 17th century Chateau Les Merles, a 4 star boutique hotel with a wonderful restaurant and 9 hole golf course. I loved it so much we’ve booked to go back this summer.
I visited the Dordogne as a guest of Dordogne Valley Tourism Boards and We Like Travel. All transfers, transport, food drink and accommodation were included in the media trip. I was not paid to publish this piece; all views and opinions are my own. Thanks to Hannah from We Like Travel for translating for us, Clemence from Brive Airport for her patience in driving us everywhere and all the teams from the tourism offices at Sarlat, Correze, Bergerac, Lot, Brive, Perigord, Welcome To Dordogne Valley and Dordogne Valley
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Beautiful. I’ve only been to Sarlat once, and it was in May. Wonderful weather, gorgeous town.
It is a lovely town with so much to explore. GG
A very beautiful town and I love those root veggies in the market!
The market really is amazing, so much to see and try. GG
Definitely makes me want to go back, it’s a very long time since I was there. I have no idea if the Hotel Lion D’Or is still there, it was rather eccentric. We were half board, and the menu stayed the same each night, but by table. Very confusing, being moved on each night, but the food was great.I just remember looking back at the table we’d had the first night to see them having the same dish we’d had the night before. After 3 nights, I got it!
Great place for sampling local eau de vies too, but mainly remember sitting outside a variety of cafes, and a parade of difference street entertainers in different genres of music adding to the atmosphere. Great place, happy memories.
That sounds like a very eccentric way to give food options in the hotel. The Eau De Vie is good. This is s great area to explore and a lovely town to chill out in. GG
Wow it must have been really lovely if you’ve booked again GG! It does look gorgeous 😀
I had a great stay and the restaurant was really good. GG
Ooh eggs with truffle, how wonderful! I love your description of the rain clearing at the market too. Very poetic!
Thank you. The scrambled eggs were so good. GG
It looks lovely! I’ve never been before but it strikes me of a place with lots of hidden treasures to explore! I love France and so will add to the list!
You’re right, there’s plenty to explore. Definitely worth adding to the list. GG
Looks like a great little trip! I love little French towns and their markets.
Me too Heidi, I love the markets. GG
You’ve captured it well! So many great places to explore.
Thank you so much. I love this part of France GG
Your photos are gorgeous – I love exploring market towns. It must have been pretty wonderful if you’ve booked to return already.
I love France and the Dordogne has so much to offer. GG
Oh, this has made me want to visit France again. I haven’t been there in far too many years. Your photos and prose bring Sarlat straight to life.
It has been too many years since I was in the Dordogne. It is one area we have been thinking of returning to and your post reminds me that I need to start this year’s trip planning for Europe soon.
Just gorgeous. I really do want to see more of France and I’ve not been to this area yet.
You make me wanna drop everything and go visit. What a stunning location. I think I live to travel for market town on market days.
How gorgeous! I can understand why you’ve booked again for next year. It’s so pretty. And I love the sound of the boutique accommodation. That photo of the flowers is stunning. I’d love to visit xx